Playa de Ses Illetes, Formentera

The clearest water in the Balearics, half an hour from Ibiza

Formentera

Formentera is the smallest and flattest of the Pitiusas, and also the one with the clearest water. There is no airport, no large resorts, and much of the island is a natural park. From Ibiza it is a little over half an hour away, which makes it the best day plan you can put together in the Balearics.

The north: Illetes and Trucadors

The northern tip of Formentera is a very narrow spit of sand called Es Trucadors, with Ses Illetes on the western side and Llevant on the eastern one. Depending on where the wind comes from, you anchor on one side or the other — something you appreciate a great deal on a changeable day.

The colour of the water here surprises even people who know the Mediterranean well. The reason is underneath: the posidonia meadows covering the channel filter the water and hold the sand on the bottom.

s’Espalmador

Separated from the northern tip by a shallow pass, s’Espalmador is a protected island with no services of any kind. White sand, exceptionally clear water and little else. It is the best stop of the day for lunch on board and an afternoon in the water.

The south coast and Migjorn

The southern side of the island is an almost continuous beach several kilometres long, far more open and with less shelter. It sails well in calm conditions and has the advantage of rarely being crowded, even in August.

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Recommended beaches and coves

Ses Illetes

Brilliant white sand with pinkish tones and transparent water. The beach that made the island famous.

However many times you cross it, the moment the bottom turns from deep blue to white never gets old. It is the place where people most often ask us to stop the engine just to look at the water.

Llevant

The opposite face of the same sand spit. The alternative when the wind comes in from the west.

It is the practical sister, the one that saves the day when the wind swings. And it is almost always quieter, so some days we choose it even when we do not have to.

s’Espalmador

A protected island with no services. White sand, silence and the best place for lunch on board.

Our spot for long lunches. There is nothing here: no beach bar, no music, no decent signal. Which is exactly why people end up talking more and looking at their phones far less.

Cala Saona

On the west coast between reddish cliffs. Small, sheltered and with a very good sunset.

The red cliffs in low sun are worth the detour. It is small and sometimes you wait for a spot, but if you can stay for sunset, stay.

Migjorn

Kilometres of open beach on the southern side. Rarely full, even in high August.

This is the Formentera that does not show up in the photos and, for us, the one closest to how it was thirty years ago. You walk along the shore for a while and meet nobody.

Es Caló de Sant Agustí

A tiny natural harbour among the rocks, with the old fishermen’s boat shelters.

A toy harbour wedged into the rock. We like passing close and slow to look at the shelters, even on days when we are not stopping.

Recommended restaurants

Opening times, prices and services change every season. If you want to eat at one of them, tell your skipper and we will book ahead.

Juan y Andrea

The best known at Ses Illetes, feet in the sand. Booking essential, and they collect anchored guests.

Es Molí de Sal

In an old salt mill. More refined Mediterranean cooking and a dinghy service.

Beso Beach

Next to Cavall d’en Borràs, near the harbour entrance. Basque-Mediterranean cooking and a lively feel.

Tanga (Llevant)

On the eastern side, more informal and less busy. A good call when Illetes is full.

El Pirata

A beach bar in the Illetes area, with privileged views and a more informal plan.

Can Rafalet (Es Caló)

Beside the fishermen’s inlet, with a terrace over the water. Traditional fish and rice dishes.

Blue Bar (Migjorn)

A south-coast icon, going for over forty years. Long sunsets and a relaxed feel.

Migjorn beach bars

The south side is dotted with simple, honest beach bars. Sand, a parasol and grilled fish.

Pas de s'Espalmador, FormenteraCosta de Formentera al atardecerRestaurante a pie de playa en Formentera

Frequently asked questions

Can you anchor freely in Formentera?

Not in the north. It is a natural park with regulated zones and a ban on anchoring over posidonia. Use the sandy clearings or authorised buoys.

How long does it take from Ibiza to Formentera?

Between thirty minutes and an hour from the south of Ibiza, depending on the boat. From Sant Antoni, considerably longer.

Do I need to book a restaurant in Formentera?

In high season, yes, and several days ahead. The Illetes places fill up daily.

Shall we plan your day?

Tell us what you feel like and we build the route around it, with skipper and crew included.

Image credits

The photographs on this page come from Wikimedia Commons and are used under their respective free licences.

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