Coves
The north of Ibiza by boat: Benirràs, Xarraca and Portinatx
The north of Ibiza is practically another island. The big resorts disappear, pine forest reaches the waterline and the coves become small and tucked away. It is the area we suggest when someone has already done the classic west-coast route and wants to see the Ibiza underneath.
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Photo by Stavros1 · CC BY 3.0
Cala Benirràs
The best known in the north and the only one with a ritual of its own: on Sundays, as the afternoon fades, the drummers gather on the beach and the whole cove listens. At the centre of the view is the Cap Bernat islet, that rock with the unmistakable shape.
Anchoring is comfortable on sand and gravel, with enough room except on high-season Sundays, when a fair few boats gather. If you are going for the drums, arrive early and anchor a little apart.
Cala Xarraca and around
Xarraca is small, shallow and a very intense turquoise, with rocks around it that are perfect for jumping and snorkelling. Precisely because it is small, the anchorage is tight: better to arrive early or leave it for mid-afternoon.
The same stretch has several inlets in a row, so you can try one after another until you find a quiet one — something that in the south of the island in August is almost impossible.
Portinatx and Cala Sant Vicent
Portinatx, at the northern tip, groups several inlets and offers good shelter. It is a comfortable stop if the day has come up with a westerly swell, because it is protected on that side.
Heading east, Cala Sant Vicent opens into a wide, protected bay with the mountain behind. It is one of the areas least travelled by organised excursions.
When not to go north
With a strong tramuntana the north gets difficult: the swell comes in on the nose, the coves lose their shelter and the day stops being pleasant. In that case the sensible move is to change plan and head south or south-west, where the same wind leaves the water flat.
It is a decision made in the morning looking at the forecast, and exactly the sort of thing where having someone who knows the island makes the difference between a good day and an uncomfortable one.
Frequently asked questions
Is the north of Ibiza worth it by boat?
Very much, especially if you already know the west coast. It is wilder, there are fewer people and the pine-over-water landscape is nothing like the south.
What day are the Benirràs drums?
Traditionally Sundays at sunset, mainly in season. It is an informal gathering, not an event with official times.
Is the north harder to sail?
It can be with northerly wind. Distances are longer and there is less shelter, so it pays to leave early and read the forecast carefully.
